Vanity Fair Review: The Lumiares Hotel & Spa, Lisbon

03.04.2022

A stylish crash pad in Portugal’s pretty capital

 

 

During the day, the higgledy-piggledy lanes of the Bairro Alto district are relatively quiet but by the evening they brim with people in a party mood. This fabulously central location is home to The Lumiares, a renovated 18th-century palace. The grand building is opposite the Miradouro de Santa Catarina (one of Lisbon’s best viewpoints) and the airport is only a 30-minute drive away.

The 47 apartment-style suites masterfully combine the luxury of a hotel with all the home comforts. Each spacious apartment has a fully equipped kitchen with Smeg appliances and a fridge stocked with wine and beer. The interiors are ultra-modern: bedrooms are decorated in flashes of candy pink teamed with cool greys and brass details. Geometric patterns feature throughout, from the Portuguese-style tiles in the bathroom to the handmade tapestry cushions. Splash out on a two-bedroom penthouse suite, which has a small private terrace.

Lumi Rooftop is the place to go for long lunches and sundowners. The space is a real sun-trap, complete with endless views over terracotta rooftops and sparkling waters. The seared tuna and pica pau (traditional Portuguese beef strips) come highly recommended. Breakfast, a mix of buffet and à la carte, is also served here. Think strong coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, smashed avocado toast and fluffy pancakes. Meanwhile, Rebel Cafe on the ground floor with its terrazzo tables is a great spot for grabbing a quick bite and watching the trams glide by.

Tucked away in the hotel’s basement you’ll find a stylish spa haven. It’s bijou but manages to pack in four treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room and gym without feeling claustrophobic. Be sure to indulge in the signature de-stress massage—the perfect antidote to days spent conquering Lisbon’s steep hills. There’s no pool here but the sister hotel, The Vintage, caters to those who want a refreshing dip. Located near the city’s botanical garden, it’s equally chic and has charmingly retro interiors.